I totally intended on continuing to listen to the list while we were in the USA for three and a half weeks, but it soon became pretty clear that there’d be no time for that (except the commute, but there was no way I was going to listen to Radio for the 14 hour flight from Melbourne to L.A. and then the 5 hour flight to New York).
A huge, fun, tiring, exciting holiday and we barely scratched the surface. Some places I fell in love with, some places just no, and some places I’m still deciding how I feel about them.. I’m looking at you New York.
So what did I love? Boston was something else, the prettiest and cleanest city that I’ve ever been to. Heart-clenchingly patriotic, Boston was everything I thought it would be. There certainly is something about being near the world’s preeminent universities that makes me feel good. It probably helps I look slightly Bostonian somehow… Hi-low? I adored Boston: perhaps no dizzying high, apart from being around college kids being college kids, but a gorgeous and proud city and one I hope to return to. Low? My trip downtown to go to the Boston Institute of Contemporary Art – a fantastic building – was a little hairy: if there were no homeless people around Back Bay (though there were a few) that’s because they all congregated downtown. I guess even the prettiest cities have their issues.
On that, it surprised us all about the number of homeless people in the US, though, sadly, you got used to it. The obvious reminder for us in Australia is that we’re in a fairly blessed state right now, and it hit home how much (one assumes) the Great Recession has impacted even wealthy states like Massachusetts and Illinois. I hope it all works out for America, lord knows they have the spirit, but you have to think there’s more dark times ahead economically.
From Boston we drove cross-country through Rochester (moving on..) to Niagara Falls, and then to Cleveland.
First – the speed at which people drive on the freeways was crazy. Easy to get used to in a plushy and big SUV, but not something that I’m used to in Australia. Surprising stuff.
Second – Niagara Falls… I almost feel like this needs its own blog. The Falls themselves were nice enough, if a little bit smaller than I thought, but as far as falls go in a tourist mecca, they were good. The worst best part though was the surrounds on the US side. I’d have to say we were a little shell-shocked. Now, I don’t know the history of the area or the reasons for the state of things, but I will say it’s an extreme oddity that one of North America’s great natural wonders is surrounded by such nonsense and tack. Do yourself a favour and go if you can, just with the lowest of expectations. The Falls themselves were nice. I’m still getting used to the idea of smoking inside a casino you can’t buy a beer in.
Cleveland itself was nice enough, if a little quiet, but we did get to the Rock ‘n’ Roll Hall of Fame which was fantastic. Going here having knocked over 30-odd albums in this list so far was great, so I can only imagine how good it’ll be in 10 years when I’ve done the 500. Housed mostly underground a Louvre-esque glass pyramid (looking like a guitar fret rising into the air, it’s actually a turntable from overheard) it’s an absolutely cracking museum. Highlights are almost too many to name, and I’ll keep thinking of more. Michael Jackson’s glove was strangely moving considering I don’t really connect with him, all things Elvis, Kurt Kobain’s death certificate was morbidly fascinating, finally hearing “It’s Been a Good Year for the Roses” by George Jones and making Andrew listen to it was fun, and hearing Elvis Costello’s “(What’s So Funny ‘Bout) Peace, Love and Understanding?” honoured made me smile. The highlight for me was fairly small scale: seeing the original penned lyrics by Sheryl Crow of “Run Baby Run” and “Leaving Las Vegas” – two gorgeous and highly recommended songs from my past.
And so I woke up in Cleveland 30 years old, had a haircut and we travelled the last leg of our road trip to Chicago. A very old, very dear, mate came down from Toronto, and Andrew surprised me with a stretch limo ride around the city, a private chef-cooked mexican feast, and we were entertained by a guitar player. So Chicago: fantastic architecture, clean, well planned, fun, easy. I adored Chicago and I can’t wait to go back and spend more time there. Highlights… The Chicago Institute of Art and Millennium Park are fantastic. Hanging out in Bucktown, Wicker Park and Lincoln Park with the hipsters was super-cool. The Wiener Circle was something else – awesome, hilarious, and like nothing you would ever see in Australia. DO IT. Just make sure it’s 2am and you’re feeling brave. And make sure you ask for the chocolate milkshake.
And then came New York, which was everything we thought it would be… and I’m almost reserving opinion until I go back and experience it some more. No doubt, it’s an amazing city, surely one of the world’s best, but hard work and touristy and tiring. Amazing and amazingly exasperating, I’ll get back and chill out a bit, explore the Burroughs, and try to tread the road less travelled. But I sound like I didn’t like it, which is far, far from the truth. Highlights are almost too numerous to list. Flaming Saddles – the cowboy/western themed gay bar in Hell’s Kitchen complete with Coyote Ugly style male bar dancers – was too much fun, as was Marie’s Crisis Cafe – the dive-bar meets musical theatre piano bar, which we attended for no less than 7.5 hours straight. Seeing the site of the Stonewall riots and having a drink in the iconic bar was special. The 9/11 memorial, although a bit unfinished, was particularly touching and moved me more than I expected it would. A triumph of design simplicity and respect, the unnerving roar of water falling over metal creates a strangely and beautifully quiet space for sadness, reflection, and hope.
America. We danced with you for but an eve, but loved every moment. I can’t wait to get back – next time it might be NY again, San Fran and California, and down to Texas and beyond. Until then, keep flying that flag. As if you would ever stop.
Next, quickly, the music we listened to in America…
thehifielective 